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19. This ring is 6 millimeters wide, with a "tight wood grain" pattern, and is made of 18-karat yellow gold, 14-karat palladium white gold and sterling silver. The center stone is a Mandarin garnet; the side stones are green diamonds. They are set in 18-karat yellow gold bezels. | ||
| Rails and Liners Rails and liners are, respectively, edge-trim pieces and the inside solid flat surface (using a single alloy) for mokume gane bands. They are optional features on James Binnion's mokume gane bands. Here are some examples of how his products are offered: | |||
| 20. This band has no rails or liner; the mokume gane pattern is visible from all views. |
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21. This ring has yellow gold rails. The rails provide a single-color design element on both sides, essentially framing the mokume gane pattern that's visible on the top and inside the ring. | ||
| 22. This band has yellow gold rails and a liner. The pattern is visible from the top. The liner enhances engraving possibilities on the inside of the band, making it easier to read. Occasionally certain individuals may have a sensitivity to one or more of the metals in a mokume gane laminate; the liner (made of gold or platinum) inhibits direct and constant contact with those alloys, and this can alleviate the sensitivity issue. |
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| Installation Techniques for Liners | |||
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23. This palladium white gold and sterling silver mokume gane band is being prepared for a 14-karat palladium white gold liner. Here it is mounted in a lathe, and the cutting tool will create a flat surface inside the band. | ||
| 24. The inside edges of the shank are chamfered. The palladium white gold liner is made to specifications and after precise fitting, it's inserted and mechanically pressed into the band. It's then flared on each edge. |
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25. Beads of 14-karat white gold easy solder and flux are carefully placed around each side of the band. A hot air gun is used to dry the flux, which holds the beads in position for soldering. The band is placed on a custom stand and soldered. |
| Installation Techniques for Rails | |||
| 26. For this palladium white gold and sterling silver mokume gane band, grooves are cut on the sides and 14-karat palladium white gold rails are fit precisely. The rails are wired to each side and the band is prepared for soldering. |
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27. Beads of 14-karat white gold easy solder are evenly placed around the seam between the rail and the band. A hot air gun is used to dry the flux and to secure the beads of solder. The ring is placed on a custom stand and soldering is completed. | ||
